Turkish Delights

I realise it has been three months since my last post. Since then I have been back in the UK for a month, and then travelled back to Turkey and resumed cruising, setting off from Kas early in July. While we were away the boatyard in Kas fitted new cockpit cushions and a couple of extra solar panels on the bimini to boost our charging capacity. We now have a total of 550 watts of solar charging capacity on the boat. 5 x 50 watt panels on the coach roof and 3 x 100 watt panels on top of the bimini. Power output peaks at around 270 watts at midday so efficiency is about 50%. We run a lot of electrics on the boat so we find we are still sometimes having to run the engine to give the batteries a boost if we are at anchor for more than a couple of days. There is still plenty of space on top of the bimini so we will probably get another 2 x 100 watt panels fitted next time we are back at Kas.

In the last couple of months we sailed from Kas up to Datca, stopping at Yesilkoy, Karacaroen, Kapi Creek, Kukukaga Koyu, and Ciftlik on the way. After that we checked out of Turkey from Datca and sailed to the greek island of Symi and spent a few days in the Dhodekanese islands before returning to Turkey, checkng in at Bodrum. From Bodrum we made our way south to Marmaris for a much needed engine service, and a few other rigging and electrical jobs.

One of the joys of sailing around the Carian and Lycian coasts of Turkey are the many small bays where you can anchor, often in idyllic settings, sometimes miles from any human habitation. We have found it’s best to try and arrive by 3:00 PM to ensure you get a good anchoring spot, otherwise you my discover the local tourist gullets have nabbed all the best places

So here are a few of my favourite spots discovered in the last few weeks cruising:

Kukukaga Koyu

We found this delightful anchorage heading out of the main Gocek bay towards Ciftlik. Due to a late start we encountered strong headwinds and a rather short uncomfortable sea as we rounded the southern end of the headland. Realising that we would have to endure several hours of motoring into the wind and waves we decided to turn around and go into the first sheltered anchorage and head out again early next morning. Kukukaga Koyu is in an idyllic setting, surrounded by wooded hills and remote from any habitation. There was one track at the head of the bay leading up the hill and an evening walk revealed a ruined Roman temple overlooking the bay. There were a handful of boats in the bay, but otherwise very quiet though we did witness hay being delivered by two small boats for a farm in the next valley.

Hay delivery, Kukukaga Koyu

Alaksisla

A few miles east of Bodrum and a perfect escape from the noise and nightclubs of that tourist mecca. We shared a small inlet with a private gullet and spent a couple of days here relaxing and and swimming in the crystal clear water. On our way back down the hill from an afternoon walk we were passed by a rustic looking Turkish couple on an ancient Honda 80 moped. They were very traditional looking farmers with the woman wearing a headscarf. We were surprised when they stopped and the woman jumped off he back and with a huge smile offered us a bunch of grapes. We were very touched to be offered a gift from ordinary country folk who were not affluent by our standards but none the less happy to share the bounty of nature and the work of their hands with complete strangers.

Tiny squid swimming past us in Alakisla .

Acheron anchored in Alakisla

Bozuk Buku

A magnificent bay guarded by a citadel at the entrance. We stayed on a restaurant pontoon at the far end and dined in style for next to nothing. The owner plied us with free drinks and introduced his staff by their nicknames, Jonny Depp, Calvin Klein, and Mike Tyson!

View of Bozuk Buku from the ancient citadel

The Loryma restaurant in Bozuk Buku

Catalada

A small island to the west of the Bodrum peninsula. The anchorage was busy with yachts and motor cruisers, but plenty of room to swing and stunning views from the hill above.

My son Matthew, on a hill overlooking the anchorage.

The anchorage

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